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The United States of Arugula:
How We Became a Gourmet Nation
By David Kamp
Published by Broadway Books; September 2006;$26.00US/$35.00CAN;
0-7679-1579-8
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This entertaining and informative
book by by David Kamp, writer and editor for Vanity Fair and
GQ, tells of the gourmet eating revolution in America that affects
our everyday lives.
The following
is an excerpt from his book The United States of Arugula:
Chapter Seven
The New Sun-Dried
Lifestyle
"What Dean & Deluca
did was give the food market a clean artistry that made it very
now, very tied into the moment when SoHo was being noticed,"
says Florence Fabricant, the New York Times food-beat scoopmeister,
who wrote about the store nearly from its inception. "Jack
Ceglic was responsible for a lot of that, the industrial look.
And Giorgio and Joel were really fanatic about ferreting out
product. It all tied together. And the other important thing
they tapped into was the need for prepared foods."
Indeed, the time had at last
arrived when it was socially and economically acceptable for
young professionals -- and even harried moms in the suburbs --
to take home freshly prepared entrées, along with salads
and sides purchased by the pound. In an earlier era, prepared
foods were problematic: they seemed too fancy and expensive (as
Jean Vergnes found out during his brief experiment with Stop
& Shop in the sixties), and, for women, they seemed a cop-out,
a betrayal of their domestic duties.
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