The secret to these thick, yet airy four-grain pancakes is separating the eggs and beating the whites.

Four-Grain Pancakes

1/2 cup old-fashioned rolled oats (not quick-cooking)

1/2 cup whole-wheat flour

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons yellow cornmeal

4 teaspoons brown sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup buttermilk

2 large eggs, separated

2 tablespoons butter, melted (or 2 tablespoons vegetable oil)

Shortening

1. Preheat oven to 400°F (205°C).
2. Toast oats on a baking sheet in preheated oven, stirring oats occasionally, until oats are fragrant and toasted, about 7 minutes. Transfer oats to food processor. Whirl until coarsely chopped. Transfer to large mixing bowl.
3. Add flours, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, baking soda and salt to oats. Set aside.
4. Whisk together buttermilk, egg yolks and melted butter in a small bowl. Set aside.
5. Beat egg whites in a clean small bowl until stiff peaks form. Set aside.
6. Make a well in center of dry ingredients. Add buttermilk mixture to well; stir until combined. Gently fold in egg whites.
7. Heat griddle or skillet over medium heat or to 375°F (190°C). Grease griddle with shortening, if necessary. Griddle is ready when a few drops of water bubble and skitter rapidly around.
8. For each pancake, pour scant 1/4 cup batter onto hot griddle. Cook pancakes until puffed and dry around edges. Turn and cook other sides until golden brown.

Makes about nine 4-inch pancakes. Recipe can be doubled.