"In 1925 Wolff Brothers of Paterson,
New Jersey, published a Yiddish English cook book with recipes
culled from a kasha cooking contest run in all the Jewish newspapers
throughout the country. "Recipes of thousands of Jewish
dishes were sent us," they wrote modestly, "but we
selected only the very best among them and these are listed here."
The recipes included buckwheat blintzes, vegetarian buckwheat
cutlets, and "a tasteful grits soup" made from their
Health Food (merely unroasted buckwheat groats), green peas,
and potatoes. The varnishke recipe was basically a kreplach-type
noodle stuffed with kasha, buckwheat groats, and gribenes.
Packaged bow-tie noodles, large and small, quickly replaced the
flat homemade egg noodles in the American version of kasha varnishkes.
The trick to a good kasha varnishke is to toast the whole-grain
buckwheat groat well over a high heat for 2 to 4 minutes until
you start smelling the aroma of the kasha. This will seal the
groats so that there is a nutty, crunchy taste to them, a good
foil to the soft taste of the noodles. When I make mine - a favorite
in my family - I add fresh parsley and sometimes coriander. Although
traditionalists use bow-tie noodles for this, try rigatoni, shells,
or any other kind of noodle you like." - Joan Nathan.
Kasha Varnishkes
at Wolff's in New Jersey
2 large onions, sliced in rounds
2 to 3 tablespoons margarine or chicken fat
1 large egg or egg white, slightly beaten
1 cup medium or coarse kasha
2 cups water or bouillon
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
3/4 pound large or small bow tie-shaped noodles
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander (optional)
- Sauté the onions in 2 tablespoons
of the margarine or chicken fat in a heavy frying pan with a
cover until golden. Remove to a plate.
- Beat the egg in a small mixing bowl and
stir in the kasha. Mix, making sure all the grains are coated.
Put the kasha in the same frying pan, set over a high heat. Flatten,
stir, and break up the egg-coated kasha with a fork or wooden
spoon for 2 to 4 minutes or until the egg has dried on the kasha
and the kernels brown and mostly separate.
- Add the water or bouillon, salt, and pepper
to the frying pan and bring to a boil. Add the onions, cover
tightly, and cook over low heat, steaming the kasha for 10 minutes.
Remove the cover, stir, and quickly check to see if the kernels
are tender and the liquid has been absorbed. If not, cover and
continue steaming for 3 to 5 minutes more.
- Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water
to a boil. Cook the bow-tie noodles according to the directions
on the package. Drain.
- When the kasha is ready, combine with
the noodles. Adjust the seasoning, sprinkle with the parsley
and coriander. If desired, add a bit more margarine or chicken
fat.
Makes 6 to 8 servings (M)w/chicken fat/bouillon;
(P)w/margarine/water.
Recipe from: Jewish Cooking in America
by Joan Nathan.
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