This would make an enticing main course for a special lunch or a casual gathering of friends late one Saturday morning. Pair it with a salad and you have modern Southwestern cuisine at its best.

Shrimp Enchiladas with Goat Cheese and Chipotle Cream

1 cup diced leek, white and light green parts
1/2 cup heavy cream
4 ounces mild goat cheese
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 teaspoon olive oil
12 shrimp (26 to 30 per pound), peeled and deveined

Chipotle Cream:
2 chipotle chilies in adobo sauce
1 cup heavy cream

4 flour tortillas, 8 inches in diameter

1. Fill a saucepan halfway with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the leeks, cook about 1 minute, and immediately drain and rinse with cold water. Wipe the pan dry and return the leeks to the pan. Add cream, goat cheese, salt and pepper. Place the pan over medium heat and cook, stirring until the cheese is melted and the sauce is somewhat thickened, about 10 minutes. Set aside.
2. In a skillet heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. When hot, add the shrimp and sauté until they just turn pink, 1 to 2 minutes. When cool enough to handle, slice the shrimp lengthwise along their backs so there are now 24 pieces of shrimp.
3. For the chipotle cream: In a mini food processor or with a sharp knife, very finely chop the chilies; strain into a small saucepan. (There should be about 1 tablespoon puree.) Add the cream to the pan and heat over medium heat, whisking, until the mixture is smooth and heated through.
4. To assemble: Preheat oven to 350°F (175°C).
5. Divide the cheese-leek mixture evenly among 4 tortillas, placing the mixture along the length of the center of the tortillas. Place 4 shrimp pieces on top and roll up into a cylinder.
6. Place in an 8 x 8-inch ovenproof dish and pour the chipotle cream over all; cover with foil.
7. Heat in the oven until warmed through 10 to 15 minutes.
8. Remove from the oven and, with a spatula, place 1 enchilada on each plate. Top each with 2 pieces of the remaining shrimp and surround with a spoonful of the sauce from the bottom of the baking dish. Serve immediately.

Serves 4.