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 For centuries both cooks and physicians have realized
that salt is not only an essential component to good health but
makes food more palatable, bringing out the essential flavor
of a dish (even a sweet one) in a way no other ingredient on
earth possibly can.
Today salt is inexpensive and
universally available, but that wasn't always the case. Because
of its importance in food preservation and the fact that the
human body requires it (for the regulation of fluid balance),
salt has been an extremely valuable commodity throughout the
ages. It was even once used as a method of exchange — Roman
soldiers received a salt allowance as part of their pay. Salt
was valued by the ancient Hebrews and Greeks, throughout the
Middle Ages and well into the 19th century when it began to become
more plentiful and therefore reasonable in price. Salt (sodium
chloride) comes either from salt mines or from the sea. Most
of today's salt is mined and comes from large deposits left by
dried salt lakes throughout the world.
Types of Salt
- Table Salt: A fine-grained refined salt with additives
that make it free-flowing, is mainly used in cooking and as a
table condiment. It's what most of us grew up on.
- Iodized Salt: Is table salt with added iodine (sodium
iodide) — particularly important in areas that lack natural
iodine, an important preventative for hypothyroidism.
- Kosher Salt: Is an additive-free coarse-grained salt.
It's used by some Jews in the preparation of meat, as well as
by gourmet cooks and chefs who prefer its texture and flavor.
Also called "coarse salt".
- Sea Salt: Is the type used down through the ages
and is the result of the evaporation of sea water — the
more costly of the two processes. It comes in fine-grained or
larger crystals. Of the brands available in the marketplace,
"Hain" brand, is a fine grain, best for general cooking
and making bread; "LaBaleine" brand is coarser grained
with a softer taste; "Maldon" brand is more expensive
and great for seasoning at the table. The most expensive, and
considered the best sea salt, comes from Brittany, France, "Fleur
de Sel" brand is top-of-the-line and hand-harvested.
- Pickling Salt: Is a fine-grained salt used to make
brines for pickles, sauerkraut, etcetera. It contains no additives,
which would cloud the brine.
- Rock Salt: Has a grayish cast because it's not
as refined as other salts, which means it retains more minerals
and harmless impurities. It comes in chunky crystals and is used
predominantly by combining with ice to make ice cream in crank-style
ice-cream makers. It is not recommended for cooking and table
use.
- Sour Salt: Also called citric salt, is extracted
from acidic fruits, such as lemons and limes. It's used to add
tartness to traditional dishes like Borscht.
- Seasoned Salt: Is regular salt combined with other
flavoring ingredients, examples being onion salt, garlic salt
and celery salt.
- Salt Substitutes: Frequently used by those on low-salt
diets, are products containing little or no sodium
Ten Factoids
on Salt
1. Most salt sold in supermarkets is labeled "iodized"
which indicates that the salt has had iodine added to it, usually
in the form of potassium iodide. Seafood as well as sea salt
contains iodine naturally and the supplement is unnecessary if
there are sufficient quantities of either in one's diet. We require
less than 225 micrograms of iodine a day.
2. Studies completed in the late 1980's and 1990's
indicate that salt is not the killer it has been declared to
be. They show, in fact, an increased risk of death among those
with the lowest sodium levels and show a large population (between
75-80%) is unaffected by salt. Moreover, there are no studies
which show that salt increases blood pressure, although certain
studies demonstrate that some hypertensive people (about 8% of
the general population) can reduce an already elevated blood
pressure by reducing the amount of salt they eat.
3. Salt has more than 14,000 uses. Less than 4% of
all salt produced each year goes into food. It is the second
most important element--sulfur is the first--in the chemical
industry and is used in the manufacture of fabrics, glass, cosmetics,
and ammunitions.
4. Fleur de Sel is the premier condiment salt, like
Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale de Modena or the finest extra virgin
olive oil. It's the cream atop the milk, and has been called
the caviar of salt.
5. Fleur de Sel's taste is delicate, yet full and
round in your mouth. It doesn't sear the tip of the tongue as
some salts do. There is no bitterness, no sharpness. The most
important characteristic, however, is its texture; it crunches
pleasantly between your teeth and because it's crystalline rather
than flaky it dissolves slowly.
6. If Fleur de Sel leads the pack of artisan salts,
according to food writer Michelle Jordan, Celtic gray sea salt
isn't far behind. As late as 1996 it was a well-kept secret praised
by food writers, chefs, and loved by anyone who visited the marshes
of Brittany on the coast of France. But for many years it was
pricey and hard to get. Today, however, Celtic gray sea salt
is everywhere and reliable mail order sources (see below) sell
it for as little as $1.25 a pound.
7. The saltiness of a specific quantity of salt--be
it Fleur de Sel, kosher, granulated sea salt, iodized salt--
will vary depending on the type of salt. But generally, if substituting
kosher salt for iodized salt (the former a type favored by most
professional chefs) you'll have to use double the amount of larger
flaked kosher salt than the finer grained iodized salt to achieve
the same saltiness.
8. Even in the best conditions mining for salt it
a dangerous occupation. The harsh Indian sun (where much of the
world's supply of commercial salt in harvested) reflecting off
the white mountains of salt is hard on the eyes. In addition,
continued exposure to the salty brine can lead to skin lesions
which can become gangrenous --when there's too little salt, wounds
can't heal, while when there is too much they won't.
9. The mysterious ability of salt to affect flavor
beyond adding it's own character may be best revealed in dry
salting and brining. Short-term brining adds flavor to bland
foods and juiciness to normally dry cuts of meat. Long-term brining
transforms both taste and texture and preserves foods as well.
While dry-salting (used in bacon and hams) intensifies natural
flavors, contributes new ones and preserves; it is often used
on foods that will be smoked.
10. Sodium functions as an electrolyte, as do potassium,
calcium, and magnesium, all of which regulate the electrical
charges within our cells. Chloride supports potassium absorption
and helps oversee the body's acid and base balance. It enhances
carbon dioxide transportation and is an essential component of
digestive acids.
Some information based on THE
FOOD LOVER'S COMPANION, 2nd edition, by Sharon Tyler Herbst.
©Copyright, Barron's Educational Services, Inc. 1995.
Salt factoids is an excerpt from
Salt and Pepper by Michelle Anna Jordan (Broadway Books, 1999).
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